Crepe de chine ribbon and its method of manufacture



Sept. 1, 1925. 1,551,799

F. P M. J. CALEMARD CREPE DE CHINE RIBBON AND ITS METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed Sept. 23, 1924 4 Fig.2.

z fl 2 Patented Sept. 1, 1925.

FRANCOIS PIERRE MARIE JOSEPH CALEMABD, OF ST. ETIENNE, FRANCE.

CREPE DE CHINE RIBBON AND ITS METHOD OF MANUFACTURE.

Application filed September 23, 1924. Serial- No. 739,433.

To all whom it may concern: Be it known that I, FRANCOIS PIERRE MARIE JOSEPH CALEMARD, a citizen of the French Republic, residing at No. .9 Place Paul-Bert, St. Etienne, Loire, France, have invented certain new and useful Crepe de Chine Ribbon and Its Method of Manufacture, of which the following is a specification.

This invention has for its object the manufacture of crpe-de-chine 'ribbon.

The textile fabric called crpe-de-chine and which up to the present has only been manufactured as a material, is produced by 75 two picks twisted to the right and two picks twisted to the left, and then ungummed after weaving. The Weft employed is com-' posed of a number of silk threads assembled together and subjected to a stress of 2500 to 3000 turns per metre, with the result that the weft threads tend to untwist and the weft to form undulations on the selvedge. As there are two different weft threads two shuttles have to be employed.

Moreover, when attempting to manufacture crpe-de-ohine ribbon by means of the usual process employing two' shuttles, as used for the selvedges of ordinary ribbons, that is to say with the two shuttles starting from the same side, a defective and unsalable article is obtained. The edge of ribbon thus manufactured is not the same on both sides and has, moreover, undulating parts which, because of the above mentioned tendency give rise to the formation of small projections,

stitute a serious defect.

The present invention has for its object to produce a crepe-de-chine ribbon comprising two selvedges which are alike and absolutely free from undulating parts, and

with this end in view the invention consists in a process in which two picks of weft thread twisted to the left and two picks of thread twisted to the right, are woven alternately and regularly, the shuttles starting in opposite directions, in such a way that the weft threads border alternately and regularly, once to the left, every two picks,

and once to the right every four picks and that every fourth 10k bordering covers over a second pick bor ering which'is constituted by the thread twisted in the opposite way. The accompanying drawings illustrate by way of example the result obtained by the urls or notches which conpresent process where the shuttles start in opposite directions and in which:

Fig. 1 shows in a wholly diagrammatic manner, the interlacing of the threads obtained by this method.

Fig. 2 shows the plotting of the selvedge as carried out according to this method.

These drawings are diagrammatic in order to show the work, of the threads, but in reality the picks of the weft join with the selvedges and form, as it were, an integral part therewith.

In crpe-de-chine material the question of selvedges is not of great importance, for the material is intended to be cut or hemmed and the edge of such material is composed simply of the same interlacing as the body of the material and comprises no selvedges. But in ribbon it is essential to obtain neat and well fastened selvedges which are absolutely free from undulating parts.

As in the manufacture of crpe-de-chine two shuttles, one provided with the thread twisted to the left and the other provided with the thread twisted to the right, and two picks for each shuttle, are necessary. It is clear that if'the shuttles start from the same side, each thread 1 and 2 will border every two picks on one side, while on the side from which the shuttles start, each thread will only border every four icks.

Consequently, the work will be abso utely different on each side and will produce two dissimilar selvedges; the selvedge of the side from which the shuttles started will comprise many undulations, which will be especially defective because the weft thread will untwist, because on that side, the bordering will only take place every four picks while on the opposite side it will take place every twopicks.

If, according to the present invention, the shuttles are started in opposite directions, as illustrated in the figures, the first shuttle will weave the first two picks 1 and will return to its initial position where it will stop. The second shuttle, starting from the opposite side willweave the two second picks 2 and return to its place of departure. At this moment the shuttle for thread 1 will start again and its thread will cover the border made by the shuttle for thread 2. It will-thus weave its two picks 1 and will return to its place of departure. The shuttle for thread 2 will start again and thread 2 will cover over the border made by the shuttle for thread 1. It will weave its two picks 2, then return to its place of departure, and so on.

The result will necessarily be an absolutely ,regular and entirely identical interlacing for the two selvedges, thus avoiding all formation of undulating parts or loops and the formation of purls and nodosities on either of the selvedges.

The weaving of the crpe-de-chine ribbon is made on a jacquard machine with two shuttles, the selvedge being mounted according to the plotting shown in Fig. 2. Solely by way of example of carrying out the invention it is mentioned here that the warp may be in Italian raw silk 13/15 While the weft may be made upof ten threads and twisted to 2500 turns per metre.

In spite of the twist thus given to the threads, the product obtained has selvedges as strong and as clearly defined as those of ordinary ribbons.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be per formed, I declare that what I claim is 1. Crpe-de-chine ribbon, the weft of which comprises alternately and regularly two picks of thread twisted to the left and two picks of thread twisted to the right, one

of the ribbon selvedges comprising borderings efi'ected every four picks of thread twisted to the left and each covering a bordering effected every two picks of the thread twisted to the right, the other sel vedge comprising borderings effected every four picks of the thread twisted to the right and each covering a bordering effected pvery two picks of the thread twisted to the eft.

2. A process for the manufacture of.

the oppositely twisted thread, whereby to obtain a ribbon having selvedges exactly alike and absolutely free from undulating parts.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification. c

FRANCOIS PIERRE MARIE JOSEPH CALEMARD. [L. s.] 

